Eurovelo 6 - France
This trip from Mulhouse, France near the Swiss border to the Atlantic Ocean was more than two years in the making. I first planned to do it in May 2020. I made all the reservations and detailed plans and was getting excited as the time approached. Then in February and March we started hearing rumors of a new virus called Covid 19 which was rapidly spreading. By April it was apparent that things were closing down and the trip would not be possible. Being the eternal optimist, I assumed all this would pass soon, and I made all the plans for September 2020. Of course, the pandemic raged on, but I figured surely by May 2021 the trip would be possible. But, how wrong I was - I cancelled all the reservations again and planned for the fall of 2021 only to be once more disappointed by a world-wide pandemic. Finally, by May 2022 things were looking better. Covid had not disappeared, but travel had opened up. So, after making hotel reservations for all of May, I mapped out my route on the navigation program Komoot, packed my bags, did a few local rides around Portland to get in shape, and readied for an adventure. My son Kevin decided to join me for the first half and my friend Stacy from Toronto joined me for the second half.
1 May, 2022
I arrived in Paris quite tired after a long flight, but was happy to see my bike arrive in the oversize luggage area. My son Kevin caught a different flight and arrived a couple of hours before me. We checked in at the Hotel Concord next to the Montparnasse train station and slept for 12 hours.
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We awoke about 8 am and had a huge breakfast at the hotel. After unpacking and assembling our bikes, we took them for a test ride past the Eifel Tower and along the river Seine. There was a lot of traffic to navigate and at one point I almost got hit by a passing bicycle when I moved into the bike lane without first looking. All was well, so we checked our empty bike bags into storage at the hotel where we would return in a few weeks to retrieve them for the flight home.
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We had an early breakfast and cycled 30 minutes to the East Train Station where we boarded the train to Mulhouse via Strasburg. Our reserved bike space was a small area packed closely across from our seats. We raced at almost 200 miles per hours through rolling farmland and yellow fields of rape seed. We arrived in Mulhouse about 12:45 and checked into our hotel conveniently located next to the train station and right at the beginning of our Eurovelo 6 cycle trail. We spent the afternoon at the famous Auto Museum, which had the largest collection of antique cars one could ever imagine. Their collection of Bugatti's is undoubtedly the world's largest. We found a lovely Spanish restaurant just two blocks away and enjoyed the Paella.
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We had breakfast at the hotel and were on the bikes by 8:30 am heading west on the EV6. The route followed the canal all the way 56 km (35) miles to Montbeliard. It first followed a series of climbing locks and then after about half way followed descending locks. The path was smooth and the weather was perfect, so we made good time arriving at our Kyriad hotel at 12:30. We cycled a short distance to the city center and found a lovely pedestrian shopping street with several restaurants. We picked an outside table and Kevin enjoyed a great cheeseburger. We returned and checked into the hotel, which conveniently stored our bikes in a locked garage. A shower and nap were both welcome. It began to rain, so we took the local bus for a short ride into town. Directly across from the bus stop was an Irish Pub, with lots of signs for Guinness. Turns out they were temporarily out of Guinness. An Irish pub without Guinness - who ever heard of such a thing? We looked at several restaurants that were supposed to be open but all we're closed down. Turns out most of them close when it rains! We finally settled on a kebab shop.
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With the forecast of more rain for the day, we slept in late. Then the local weather radar showed a break in the rain, so we decided to chance it. It proved to be the right decision as the rain never materialized. We made good speed and arrived in Baume les Dames at 3 pm after a 56 km ride. Most of the route was flat along the canal, but a short section involved some climbing. The Hotel Bambi restaurant turned out to be popular with locals and the food was an example of how French cuisine became famous.
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The weather held and we reached our next destination of Besancon - a town of 110,000. It was a relatively short ride (28 miles). In the afternoon we visited the 18th century Citadel, a UNESCO world heritage site, which overlooks the city. Our hotel Ibis was very convenient and comfortable.
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The weather forecast looked excellent and Kevin wanted to sleep in, so we had a late breakfast. We cycled a mostly flat route following alongside either the canal or the Le Doubs River for 52 km to the town of Dole. This quint town of 23,000 featured a nice square and park and a huge cathedral dating from 1500. We visited the Louis Pasteur Museum - housed in his boyhood home. It was a reminder of how little was known before him about germs, vaccines, and even fermentation. For dinner we found a great little restaurant that specialized in fondue. It was excellent and more than the two of us could eat.
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This was the longest distance of the entire trip - 91.2 km (57 miles) to Chalon sur Saone. It was a good mostly flat ride, but made longer by the afternoon heat. We stopped for a lunch break and arrived at 3 pm. We celebrated with a bottle of wine and a huge dinner of beef brochette for two.
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We left about 9:15 and cycled 67 km to Montceau les Mines - a historic coal mining town. We followed the canal again for about 2/3 of the route. At about 50 km we ran into a section where the trail was under construction and the gravel surface was very rough. Kevin got a flat tire, but we managed to change the tube and made it OK.
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In the morning our route out of town climbed some steep hills for about an hour. It was definitely a warm up. We then descended into some gently rolling farmland and the route finally ran flat on a not too busy highway along the canal into Paray Le Monial - a total ride of 38 km. At one point we cycled beside the canal which passed over the river below. The town was very quiet and everything was closed for mid day. The main attractions were the 16th century church and the Chapel of "Apparitions". It is said that here during the years 1673-1675 Jesus revealed his sacred heart to St, Margaret Mary Alacoque. As we sipped a drink at an outdoor table in front of the hotel a large group of about 50 tourists with a guide arrived at the hotel. They turned out to be from the Philippines, and from their excitement with the Chapel of Apparitions across the street, they were apparently on a tour of religious sites. The hotel looked like the best dinner option in town, so waited patiently until the restaurant opened at 7:15 and managed to slip in just before the huge group of Philippine tourists. The plat de jour was an excellent beef bourganion.
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The forecast was for a hot 85 degrees, so we decided to skip breakfast at the hotel and get an early start to beat the heat on our 48 km journey to our next stop - Bourbon Lancy. This was a good decision as we averaged over 12 miles per hour and arrived by 10:40 am before the heat of the day. The Ibis Hotel was good enough to accommodate our early check in. Our room overlooked a small lake. We noticed something strange to us Americans - there were many pastry shops, some open early, but they didn't serve coffee. For that we had to find a bar or restaurant. In the afternoon I sat by the lake and watched a couple of very patient gentlemen with their fishing poles in the water. In an hour or so, one pulled up three little tiny fish, unhooked them, and tossed them back.
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We were on the road at 7:40 am anticipating a long day. We encountered a little of everything, starting with hilly farmland with some climbs and long downhills, then through the center of the town of Decize, along some flat country roads and then finally the last hour riding along the canal, seeing herons and swans as we passed through a light rain. After 80 km we arrived at Nevers - the final cycling destination for my son Kevin. We had a BnB in an old but remodeled apartment in the center of town. The host Stephanie spoke some English and was very helpful.
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In the morning we visited the impressive 11th and 12th century cathedral of Nevers and then took the train back to Paris, Bercy station where Kevin and I split up. He would spend a day in Paris and then fly home. I had a hotel not too far from Bercy Station and took an Uber to pick up a rental bike for my friend Stacy who was arriving tomorrow from Toronto.
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I went to CDG Airport and met Stacy who arrived from Toronto. We returned to the hotel and she spent the afternoon recovering from jet lag.
15 May
We left about 8am and biked to the Bercy train station where we boarded a train to Gien. There we would join the EV6 cycle route to continue west.
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With a chance of rain in the forecast, we left at 8 am for a 72 km ride to Orleans. The rain turned out to be a very light sprinkle lasting about 45 minutes, and was not a problem. The route was varied including some sections on the highway, but much of it along the top of the flood control dike beside the River Loire. We passed by a fairy tale medieval castle in Sully-sur-Loire complete with moat and towers. It was once home to the 1st Duke of Sully. We finally reached our hotel in Orleans about 3 pm.
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17 May
Today was a day of rest. We spent the day in Orleans. A beautiful city of 115,000 beside the Loire River. The famous cathedral was impressive indeed, and one of the best I have ever seen. The town square is very picturesque and in the center is a massive equestrian statue of the city's patron - Joan of Arc, who saved the city from the English siege in 1429. I discovered my tire was flat and the pump would not fit. We found a bike repair place which was a bit funky, located down a narrow alley in the owners back yard. The guy changed the tube and we returned to the hotel.
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18 May
We were ready to leave about 8:30, when I discovered my tire was flat again. I took it apart and found a small thorn in the tire which I removed, but since my pump would not fit the new inner tube I had to locate a bike shop which opened at 9:30. Finally, by 10:15 we were back on the road toward our next destination of Blois. About half way there my tire went flat again and we located a bicycle shop in a small town. The guy was very good and located a small piece of metal like a staple in the tire. Once repaired we decided to make a detour and visit the famous and very impressive Chateau of Chambord built by Francis I and completed in 1547. This added about 15 km to our day. It was very hot, but we finally arrived after 68 km at our hotel in Blois at 6:15 pm. It was not the longest distance, but it was the longest cycling day I ever had.
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19 May
The predicted rain never materialized and we left Blois at 9:15 headed for Tours 70 km to the west. It was a good ride with some hill climbing, and afternoon heat of 80 degrees F. We stopped in the lovely town of Amboise for coffee and a snack and noticed the presence of many American tourists. We cycled through an increasing number of large vineyards and arrived at our hotel in Tours at 3:15 pm. It was a hostel called People - inexpensive and catering to cyclists, but totally adequate. We were booked for two nights. A cold beer was welcome after cycling in the heat most of the day. I think if I were to do this trip again, I would do it in April. The climate average is about the same number of days of rain, but it would be considerably cooler.
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20 May
We heard about the Chateau and Gardens at Villandry, just 15 km to the west and decided instead of two nights in Tours, we would head to Villandry. So, after a visit to the huge indoor marketplace in Tours, we loaded our bikes and continued west. We were not disappointed. The original 12th century fortress tower, was the center for construction of a huge Chateau built around 1536. Later, in the 19th century, a huge English style garden was constructed behind the Chateau. The inside of the Chateau and the Gardens were both very impressive. We stayed the night in Villandry.
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21 May
We left Villandry and rode along the top of the river levee or through vineyards - mostly on good pavement. Occasionally we would glimpse a castle or large Chateau on the hills several km away. We passed through very picturesque villages like Montsoreau, Turquant, and Parnay with their many wineries. Many had wine storage caves carved into the limestone cliffs. We reached Saumur about 2 pm having cycled 55 km. We stayed at the lovely Kyriad Hotel in the center of town, close to the busy pedestrian-only street full of restaurants, bars, and cafes.
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22 May
We left in the morning for our next destination of Angers - a 55 km ride. We had the usual mix of highway and paved and unpaved bike trails. We passed through farmland and through several small towns. As it was Sunday we encountered a lot of local cycling groups. There were several sections of short steep hills, which I found really challenging in the afternoon heat. As we got closer to Angers, the trail ran into an offshoot of the river. The only way to cross was a small passenger/bike ferry boat which had to be hand pulled by a connecting chain that ran all the way across. After some bit of effort we safely reached the other side. We arrived at our hotel near the train station in Angers about 2:30.
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23 May
We awoke to rain this morning. Fortunately, this is a day we had planned to rest and stay in Angers. I visited the Chateau of Angers. Originally constructed by the count of Anjou in the 9th century as a defense against the Normans, it was expanded when the powerful Plantagenet dynasty ruled over Anjou. It is a an amazing fortress with 17 massive towers. It houses a display of the Apocalypse Tapestry from 1375. At 100 meters long, it is the largest in the world of that age.
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24 May
Rain was in the forecast for this afternoon, so I got off to a fairly early start. Stacy stayed later to do some shopping and then took the train to our next stop - Ancenis-Saint-Gereon. I cycled out of town and along a quiet marsh wetland. The only sounds were from the hundreds of waterfowl of different kinds. A large muscrat or breaver scampered across the trail in front of me. After an hour or so I encountered a long challenging hill. I found a nice coffee shop in a small town and lingered for a good half hour next to the river. As it turned out, this delay resulted in my later getting soaked by rain. Just 30 minutes to my destination, and dark ominous clouds moved in. It began to pour heavily. My poncho kept the worst of it off, but I limped into the quiet sleepy town of Ancenis after 60 km soaking wet.
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25 May
We cycled mostly along the river. We passed through the larger town of Nantes with its tall buildings and stopped for a wonderful pistachio cheesecake and coffee. We then encountered about a 5 km unpleasant section of the route on a highway with lots of traffic and no shoulder. We arrived after 57 km at a BnB in the small town of Couoren.
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26 May
We took the free ferry across to the south side of the Loire River and cycled about 45 km to Saint Brevin Les Pins - finally reaching the Atlantic coast. After a short visit to the open air market and beach, we boarded a bus, with bike spaces we had reserved the previous day, for the trip across the bridge to Saint Nazaire. The bridge spans the wide estuary mouth of the Loire where it enters the Atlantic Ocean. It is long, high, and quite dangerous for cyclists, so we were glad to be on the bus. We arrived in Saint Nazaire early afternoon, to discover that most shops and restaurants were closed from Thursday through Sunday for the Ascension Day holiday.
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27 May
Today we returned to Paris on the TER trains from Saint Nazaire- Nantes-Le Mans-Gare Montparnasse. Transferring bikes twice, the ride took over 5 hours total. It was strange to be on the train traveling back along the Loire River. The same scenes that, not long ago, passed slowly on the cycle trail, now flew by at a blurry 100 miles an hour.
28 May.
I biked 4 km across Paris to return Stacy's rental bike, then packed up my own bike. A negative Covid test was required for the flight back to the U.S. A pharmacy just across the street from the hotel was very convenient and supplied the test document with an hour. I relaxed at an outdoor table near the round-about and sipped a cold beer to celebrate a successful and fun trip.
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29 May
The flight home was uneventful and I was happy to see my bike arrive at the oversize luggage pick up.
Summary and General Comments
Cycling through a forest or along a river, especially on quiet mornings, offers an opportunity to get close to the natural world. This trip offered many such experiences. We encountered wildlife of many kinds, including herons, mute swans, coocoo birds, doves, hawks, lizards, snakes, muskrats, and deer.
Travel in any country involves challenges and adaption to different cultural norms. As an American, there were many things I liked about this experience and a few that, well, seemed a bit foreign and strange. There were many positives. The quality of the food and wine cannot be over rated. It quickly became obvious why France has developed a reputation for some of the best cuisine in the world. Every meal was a delight. The signage and marking for the Eurovelo 6 route were excellent, so along with our navigation program, we had little trouble finding our way. French drivers seemed to be very courteous and considerate of bikers. There were a few negatives. For example, the train system, in general, is probably the best in the world. However, one experience dimmed my enthusiasm. On our return from Nantes to Paris, they had a station closed and they didn't inform us that we should change at a different station, so we ended up having to do a long detour and then buy a new ticket. The high proportion of smokers in France was evident everywhere and we were unavoidably exposed at every café and restaurant. The hours and days in which restaurants and shops were open was a continuing puzzle. Closing mid-day for a few hours was understandable, and most restaurants did not open until 7 pm. But, the days on which they opened could not be predicted. And, if it rained, they simply closed up.
Overall, it was a fantastic trip which I would recommend to anyone who seeks some adventure on a bicycle.
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